Ingredienser å unngå, og å se etter

4 Jul

Sakset fra RockynCurls.blogspot.com, Raquel Bolin.

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Curly Girl/Healthy Hair Friend or Foe Ingredients: Sulfates and Silicones, etc.

Remember, sulfates are ingredients that contain «sulfate» or «sulfonate»; silicones end in -cone, -conol, or -xane but PEG modified silicones are acceptable; waxes contain the word «wax»; and drying alcohols often contain propyl, prop, eth, or denatured in the name.  Modified CG information is included as well.

Here is a list of sulfates to avoid: (“sulfate» or «sulfonate”)
Alkylbenzene sulfonates
Alkyl Benzene Sulfonate
Ammonium laureth sulfate
Ammonium lauryl sulfate
Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Sodium cocoyl sarcosinate
Sodium laureth sulfate
Sodium lauryl sulfate
Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate
Sodium myreth sulfate
Sodium Xylenesulfonate
TEA-dodecylbenzenesulfonate
Ethyl PEG-15 cocamine sulfate
Dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate
Here is a list of gentle cleansers to look for:
Cocamidopropyl betaine
Coco betaine
Cocoamphoacetate
Cocoamphodipropionate
Disodium cocoamphodiacetate
Disodium cocoamphodipropionate
Lauroamphoacetate
Sodium cocoyl isethionate
behentrimonium methosulfate
disodium lautreth sulfosuccinate
babassuamidopropyl betaine
Here is a list of silicones to avoid: (end in cone, -conol, or –xane)
Dimethicone
Bisaminopropyl dimethicone
Cetearyl methicone
Cetyl Dimethicone
Cyclopentasiloxane
Stearoxy Dimethicone
Stearyl Dimethicone
Trimethylsilylamodimethicone
Amodimethicone
Dimethicone
Dimethiconol
Behenoxy Dimethicone
Phenyl trimethicone
Water soluble silicones. These are exceptions that are OK: (The raw ingredients dissolve in water and rinse off with plain water. Shampoo may or may not be necessary to remove products containing these ingredients).
Anything with a PEG- or PPG- in the name: PEG-Dimethicone, or any other ‘cone with «PEG-» suffix (water soluble)
Dimethicone Copolyol (water soluble)
Lauryl methicone copolyol (water soluble) (Heavier?)
Dimethicone-PG Diethylmonium Chloride
Silicone Quaterniums 1-21 and more: (Quaternium-80, Quaternium 86, PEG-8 Distearmonium Chloride PG-Dimethicone, Silicone Quaternium-1, Silicone Quaternium-2, Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate, Silicone Quaternium-3, Silicone Quaternium-4, Silicone Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-6, Silicone Quaternium-7, Silicone Quaternium-8, Silicone Quaternium-9, Silicone Quaternium-10, Silicone Quaternium-11, Silicone Quaternium-12, Silicone Quaternium-15, Silicone Quaternium-16, Silicone Quaternium-16/Glycidoxy Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Silicone Quaternium-17, Silicone Quaternium-18, Silicone Quaternium-19, Silicone Quaternium-20, Silicone Quaternium-21, Dimethicone Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride, Hydroxyethyl Acetomonium PG-Dimethicone, Stearalkonium Dimethicone PEG-8 Phthalate, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Panthenyl PEG-7 Dimethicone Phosphate Chloride, and combinations thereof,
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxane (water soluble)
Hydrolyzed Wheat protein/hydroxypropyl polysiloxane and cystine/silicone co-polymers
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol

Silicone look alikes, but are they not silicones, they are OK: (end in –one)
Methychloroisothiazolinone – preservative
Methylisothiazolinone – preservative
Benzophenone-2, ( or 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) – sunscreen
Silicates: Inorganic minerals (Water soluble)

Here is a list of waxes and non-natural oils to avoid:
Castor oil (Not CG friendly, but ok in the modified CG method and can be removed using a stronger low poo or a cleanser with Cocamidopropyl betaine or Coco betaine)
Mineral oil (parrifidium liquidium)
Petrolatum
Waxes: bees wax, candelia wax, etc.

Waxes/Oils that are OK
Emulsifying Wax
PEG-Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Natural oils: Avocado oil, Olive oil, Coconut oil, etc.

Here is a list of drying alcohols to avoid: (propyl, prop, eth, or denatured in the name)
Denatured alcohol
SD alcohol 40
Witch hazel
Isopropanol
Ethanol
SD alcohol
Propanol
Propyl alcohol
Isopropyl alcohol
Here is a list of moisturizing alcohols to look for:
Behenyl alcohol
Cetearyl alcohol
Cetyl alcohol
Isocetyl alcohol
Isostearyl alcohol
Lauryl alcohol
Myristyl alcohol
Stearyl alcohol
C30-50 Alcohols
Lanolin alcohol

Proteins (Some is good for the hair diet, especially damaged hair. However, normal hair, or protein sensitive hair could begin feel stiff, frizzy, and dry, then your hair is getting to much protein.)

Here is a list of proteins that you can avoid or look for, depending on your hair type (anything that says hydrolyzed, silk, protein, collagen, keratin)
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hair keratin
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silk
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl silk amino acids
Cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen
Cocoyl hydrolyzed keratin
Hydrolyzed keratin
Hydrolyzed oat flour
Hydrolyzed silk
Hydrolyzed silk protein
Hydrolyzed soy protein
Hydrolyzed wheat protein
Hydrolyzed wheat protein
Keratin
Potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen
TEA-cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen
TEA-cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein

Polyquats (Could build up on finer, thin hair)
Polyquaternium 4

Cyclomethicones (cyclo-silicones, evaporate off of the hair and but may build up and may buckle the cuticle and make a ruffled appearance) (I would use these with caution)
Cyclopentasiloxane
Cyclotetrasiloxane
Cyclohexasiloxane
Octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane

Build up
It can happen from water soluble cones, cyclmethicones, polyquats, shea butter even oil. Finer, thin, low porosity hair is more sensitive to this. So occasionally do a low poo to prevent this. Once a week to once a month.
What does product build up look like? Heavy and coated, less curls, some have frizz.

Check out these sources below, where I got the information from.

Sources
http://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/products-ingredients/silicate-silicone-hair-products-the-real-dirt/
http://iknowotherstuff.blogspot.com/2012/01/which-ingredients-to-avoid-with-curly.html
http://pedaheh.blogspot.com/2012/04/which-ingredients-to-avoid-in-curly.html
http://science-yhairblog.blogspot.com/2014/04/silicone-ingredient-solubility-list.html
http://www.google.com/patents/US7700530#v=onepage&q&f=false
http://m.wikihow.com/Determine-if-a-Hair-Product-is-Curly-Girl-Approved
http://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/curl-products/curlchemist-cyclomethicones-a-different-category-of-silicones/

Print this out for when you shop.  Have fun playing with your hair!!

Vivi&Pelsklingene

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